for the uninitiated, the sight is often a source of quiet bewilderment. A line of people, young and old, stand at a small, unassuming stall. A vendor with a practiced hand slices a silvery fish, and then, with a flourish, a customer grasps it by the tail, tilts their head back, and lowers the entire fillet into their mouth. This is the ritual of eating haring, and in the Netherlands, it is a culinary experience as iconic and culturally significant as a tulip field in spring.

Haring, or Dutch raw herring, is not merely a food. It is a symbol of national identity, a testament to centuries of maritime tradition, and a seasonal delicacy celebrated with a fervor that borders on a national holiday. To truly understand the Dutch, you must understand their enduring love affair with this fatty, salty fish.

 

From Humble Beginnings: A History Steeped in Salt and Sea

 

The story of haring is inextricably linked to the history of the Dutch Golden Age. While herring fishing has been a part of the Low Countries’ life since the 11th century, it was a 14th-century innovation that catapulted the Netherlands to maritime and economic dominance. The hero of this story is a fisherman named Willem Beukelszoon from Biervliet, who is credited with a revolutionary method of preserving herring. This technique, known as gibbing or kaken, involved gutting the fish in a specific way—removing the gills and parts of the gut while leaving the pancreas intact. The enzymes from the pancreas, combined with salting, would cure the fish from the inside out, creating a tender, flavorful fillet that could be stored for months.

This process was a game-changer. It allowed the Dutch to store and transport herring over long distances, transforming a perishable food into a valuable commodity. The “herring bonanza” that followed was a cornerstone of the Dutch economy, financing a powerful fleet and contributing to the nation’s wealth and global influence. The herring truly was the “gold of the sea” that helped build cities like Amsterdam and fueled the nation’s rise to power.

While modern historians suggest that the gibbing technique may have already existed in other parts of Europe, the Dutch perfected and industrialized it, making it their own. The legacy of Willem Beukelszoon, even if his role is a bit legendary, cemented the herring’s place as a cornerstone of Dutch heritage.

 

The Art of the Hollandse Nieuwe: A Seasonal Delicacy

 

The very best haring is known as Hollandse Nieuwe (Dutch New Herring). This is not just any herring; it is a young, lean herring caught at a specific time of year. The fishing season for this delicacy typically runs from mid-May to early July. This is the brief window when the herring have the perfect fat content—at least 16%—before they begin to spawn. This high fat content is what gives the Hollandse Nieuwe its buttery, tender texture and rich, mild flavor.

The arrival of the first barrel of Hollandse Nieuwe is an event celebrated with great pomp and circumstance. The first barrel is traditionally auctioned off for charity in the fishing town of Scheveningen, often fetching tens of thousands of euros. This day, known as Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day), marks the official start of the herring season and is a festive occasion with parades, music, and of course, plenty of fish.

Today, strict regulations ensure the quality of Hollandse Nieuwe. The fish must be frozen for a minimum of 24 hours at a low temperature to kill any potential parasites, a food safety measure implemented in 1968. While some may consider this a departure from “raw” fish, the Dutch argue that the light salting and ripening process gives it a unique character that is distinct from true raw fish like sushi.

 

How to Eat a Haring: A Lesson in Dutch Etiquette

 

For the novice, the act of eating haring can be intimidating. The traditional method, known as haringhappen (herring-gulping), involves holding the fish by the tail and lowering it into the mouth. It is a performance in itself, a daring act that demonstrates a full embrace of Dutch culture.

However, for those who find this method a bit too adventurous, there are other, equally delicious options. The most common alternative is to have the fishmonger slice the fillet into bite-sized pieces and serve them in a paper or plastic tray. These are almost always served with two quintessential toppings: finely chopped raw onion and sliced gherkins (pickles). The sharp, pungent onion and the tangy gherkin provide a perfect counterbalance to the rich, oily fish, creating a harmonious and addictive flavor profile.

Another popular way to enjoy haring is as a broodje haring, a sandwich of the filleted fish served on a soft, white bun, again with onions and pickles. This is a heartier, more substantial option that makes for a perfect lunch on the go.

 

A Taste of Dutch Life: Where to Find the Best Haring

 

You don’t need to look hard to find haring in the Netherlands. From coastal towns like Scheveningen to the bustling markets of Amsterdam, herring stalls (known as viskraam or haringhandel) are ubiquitous. These stalls are often simple, open-air setups, and the best ones are known for their long lines and the constant hum of happy customers. A true haringhandel will have a steady stream of patrons, a sign that the fish is fresh and of high quality.

While the Hollandse Nieuwe season is the best time for haring, the fish is available year-round. Outside of the prime season, the herring is still cured and sold, and while it may not have the same delicate, melt-in-your-mouth quality as the new catch, it remains a popular snack.

For the Dutch, eating haring is not just about the flavor; it’s a social act. It’s a quick, convenient snack to share with friends, a way to refuel during a busy day of shopping, or a post-pub treat. It embodies the Dutch spirit of simplicity, pragmatism, and a deep appreciation for the simple pleasures in life. It’s a reminder of their historical connection to the sea and the enduring traditions that bind their society together.

So, the next time you find yourself in the Netherlands, don’t just admire the canals and windmills. Step up to a viskraam, order a haring met uitjes (herring with onions), and, if you’re feeling brave, take a deep breath and go for the full haringhappen experience. You’ll not only be tasting a delicious piece of fish, but you’ll also be taking a bite of Dutch history and culture.